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Ever find yourself
scrub-a-dub-dubbing in the bath or shower, musing upon the origin of
intelligent life in the universe and how they make soap? Well, as far as
the first question goes, the jury is still out on whether there is indeed
intelligent life in the universe. But we can certainly answer your
question about soapmaking.
Soap base is made by mixing fat
with an alkali, a process called saponification. In the old days
soapmakers used the ashes of plants like the soapwort and barilla for the
alkali. But ever since Nicolas Leblanc figured out how to synthesize the
active ingredient, sodium hydroxide (a.k.a. lye), in late 18th
c. France, that’s what everyone’s been using.
When it comes to which fat to
use, however, there are still lots of options: saturated, unsaturated,
ploy, mono, animal, vegetable.
Most soaps are made from a
tallow base (that’s right, animal fat…whence comes the expression
“soap rendering”). It doesn’t matter how many flowers are on the
package, or even how transparent the bar is, unless it specifically says
"vegetable base" it’s probably tallow.
Why tallow? It’s cheap. It
makes a great base for soap. And people have been using it for soap ever
since Phoenicians started boiling up goat fat with wood ashes about 2500
years ago. (The first solid soap bar was made in the Middle East around
the 8th century.)
We have a preference, aesthetic
and otherwise, for soaps with a vegetable-base, which tend to be made with
a blend of 80% palm oil and 20% coconut oil, but can also contain olive
and/or other vegetable oils. The base for true Castile soaps, for
example, is primarily olive oil, as is the base of our Jardin
d’Olivier soap.
How about gylcerine soaps?
Well here’s a little-known fact: you don’t have to add glycerine to
make a glycerine soap base. You just have to leave it in! When you mix fat
with lye, the reaction creates about 93% soap and 7% glycerine. Usually
all but about 1/2% of that glycerine is removed. In glycerine soap, it’s
left in (and, occasionally, more is added to bring that level up to around
10%). Also, just because the soap is clear doesn’t mean it has a
vegetable base. The only glycerine soaps we carry are in the Essence
line from France, and they do have a 100% vegetable base.
What’s a superfatted soap?
Once where they’ve added additional oil or fat (often lanolin) to the
base after saponification. How about Castile soap? A soap with a base
that’s primarily olive oil and made in the Castile area of Spain.
(Unless, of course, it’s just a soap word with the word
"Castile" on the label).
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